A movie about a famous person’s youth has to give you a reason to care before that person does anything famous.

Tony has a reasonably good one: its young Anthony Bourdain is an ambitious, insecure pain in the ass who could benefit from having something useful to do.

Dominic Sessa makes him interesting company, and Antonio Banderas gives him somebody worth listening to. Their relationship is the strongest reason to spend a summer in this particular kitchen.

What It’s About

Set in 1975, Tony follows a 19-year-old Bourdain whose plans to become a writer have suffered a setback. He hasn’t received the fellowship he expected, despite already telling people he got it.

He heads to Provincetown, Massachusetts, where a girl he likes is spending the summer. Things don’t go especially smoothly, and he eventually takes a dishwashing job at a seafood restaurant.

The kitchen introduces him to people who have little interest in the impressive future he imagines for himself. They have work to do, and now he does, too.

Banderas plays the chef who hires him and gradually becomes a mentor. Leo Woodall plays Sal, a coworker whose appeal comes with considerably more potential for trouble. Tony finds camaraderie, temptation and the beginnings of an interest that might actually lead somewhere.

Sessa handles the contradictions well. Tony wants to be treated like an adult while regularly giving people reasons to question that decision. His arrogance can be irritating, but there’s enough uncertainty underneath it to keep him sympathetic.

Who It’s For

If you enjoy character-driven movies about people finding their way, Tony has an appealing cast and enough humor and warmth to make the familiar setup work.

You don’t need to know Bourdain’s television shows or have read his books. The immediate concerns—embarrassment, attraction, work, friendship and wanting to be taken seriously—are easy enough to recognize.

The reservations are mostly about how familiar the journey becomes. The mentor relationship is more engaging than the romantic subplot, and the movie’s modest scope may leave viewers hoping for a broader portrait of Bourdain wanting more. It also takes substantial liberties with his history. This is a fictionalized story built around his early experiences, rather than a detailed biography.

Still, Sessa gives the movie an engaging center, and Banderas makes the time in the restaurant count. If a small coming-of-age drama sounds like your kind of evening, this is worth renting. 

Dominic Sessa gives us somebody worth following, even when Tony gives everybody around him reasons to lose patience.